About the Armenian Gampr

Determining if your gampr is a credit to the breed, before breeding, is important.

Evaluation: each dog should be evaluated for current and genetic health, ability to do the job of a gampr well, and proper physical structure. These evaluations are best done at 2 years of age or after, and breeding should only be done after 2 years of maturity. The working evaluation may be done at any time, but mature dogs will express their ability more reliably.

  • Total scores per evaluation are expressed as a %, and individual dogs who score less than 60% in any evaluation, or less than an average of 70% among all three, should not be bred. (rare exceptions)
  • All scores have individual components, and all dogs will have 'weak spots' and portions that they excel. Ideally, a mating should be chosen to balance any weak points. These will be noted at the bottom of every evaluation.
  • Evaluation scores will be added to registration certificates. The registration certificate will have scores for health, working ability, and structure.
  • Evaluations can be seen here.
  • If you would like your gampr officially evaluated, which is ideally done before selecting a mate, email rohana@gampr.org or call 805 674 1741. This is good to do at 2 years of age, and shows what to seek in a mate for your gampr - every dog has aspects in which it excels, and aspects in which it doesn't, so the evaluations help pinpoint what is needed for creating the ideal match.

Current Health: Of course any breeding dog should be in optimal current health. All vaccinations should be done, de-wormed, free of fleas, dermatitis, heartworm or other weakening afflictions.
  • dewormer given regularly, and particularly before breeding
  • sprinkle diatomaceous earth as a flea control where your gampr sleeps
  • check with your vet to ensure your gampr does not have heartworm.

If you have determined that your dog is appropriate for breeding, then more information is below:

Things to have on hand:

  • Puppy wormer: Pyrantal Pamoate liquid wormer. This is to be given to puppies at 2, 3, 4, 6 and 8 weeks of age. It is usually a yellow liquid that tastes good to them, and is easy to administer (a small syringe, like what would be used for human baby medication, is useful). Nemex2 is a recommended brand. Use a syringe (without the needle) to measure each dose, and squirt it into the side of their mouths between their gums, making sure they swallow it all. When puppies are old enough to defecate away from the nest, you will likely see what looks like string in their feces - those are dead roundworms. Puppies get the worms from their mother, and later from anything they put in their mouths. Very very common.
  • Flea Control: Fleas can multiply very fast when a mother dog and pups provide consistent housing and food for them without moving. Puppies can become anemic if there is an infestation. Fleas pass tapeworms to dogs as well. The most natural powder is diatomaceous earth, or DE. It may be purchased at many places, such as Orchard Supply or at the link above. Be careful to not let them inhale the powder or get it in their eyes, it might be irritating.
  • Appropriate bed/nest material: Sheets, towels and blankets can and will very likely be wrinkled, and puppies will wiggle underneath and be smothered or crushed. Recommended safer materials are carpet remnants, or straw. In the winter, it is necessary to provide heat for the first two weeks. The mother will prefer less heat than the puppies, so if possible and supervised, use a regular electric blanket firmly attached to the floor and stretched tight (no wrinkling!) If not, then
    space heaters will help.
  • First vaccinations: if not done by a veterinarian, you can do these at home. You can buy them individually at certain stores, or order them through the mail. A suggestion is Solo-Jec 5Plus, which can be as low as $3/dose. They will only be good if kept chilled, and you will need to purchase needles separately. Try S7-W3 22 ga x 3/4" Needle, 1/puppy, also from Jeffers.(They are ~25 cents each, so still very inexpensive) Save the sticker from the vial to send with each puppy on it's health record. If you do not know how to give sub-cutaneous injections, ask your vet to show you. Here are some video links as well: Penny Diloretto class, and Valley Vet Supply.

Highly recommended:

  • Micro-chip kit: A good breeder who cares for the future of the puppies produced should micro-chip each pup. A simple, inexpensive solution can be to use the ViaGuard kit at home, see their Pet Microchip Plus Program, 10 for $79. The average litter size is 10, so likely just one order will be enough. Order this when your pups are 2 weeks old just to be sure you are buying the right amount. There are videos on the linked website for further information.
  • Vet Record/Health History: You may download ours and print it. Put the stickers for the vaccinations (peel them off the bottle) on the paper, with the date the vaccination was given. If you have micro-chipped the puppy, you should make a note on the paper.